![]() 04/09/2018 at 13:00 • Filed to: wrenching, rustventures | ![]() | ![]() |
And I’m not even done yet!
I have another post coming up later about getting my sister’s !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! back on the road, and I promise there will be some Saab updates too, but I wanted to show you guys these brake lines.
This came off of a 2001 Silverado. It’s the line that runs underneath the radiator to go feed the RF caliper:
You see, here in Michigan we don’t have yearly vehicle safety inspections (some commercial vehicles get a regular DOT inspection, though). Salt is a way of life, so we certainly don’t go condemning every brake line that happens to have some rust on it. No, there’s a big difference between surface rust, and a flaking section of tubing that’s about to pop.
And this one sure as hell popped.
Ya like them flakes? Check out the caliper it goes to:
It is a MIRACLE this bleeder screw came out. I was sure that it was going to shear in two. But after some wire brushing, penetrating oil, propane torching (I don’t have oxy/acet), and “Freeze-Off” to cool the bleeder back down, the Vise Grips managed to twist the whole thing free. I guess this caliper isn’t getting replaced quite yet after all!
Ran into a problem, though, and this is why the truck’s still out of commission for the moment. The plan was to splice some new !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! into a serviceable section of original steel line, but my flaring tool’s press pushed the line right through the clamp without flaring it.
This pic is actually just a test piece, though. The section that has to be flared is still on the truck, but I was using this junk piece to teach my brother how to flare brake lines, and I wanted to show him how to do steel ones before moving on to the NiCopp. Either the clamp is still gripping too much rust and letting the good steel slide by, or My cheap flaring kit is a little too cheap.
I’ve got a hunch that it’s the tool, and I probably need a clamp with better-machined non-chinesium grooves in it. This one has always worked just fine, flaring NiCopp like a champ, and even 3/16" steel tubing. This is the first time I’ve tried to use it on 1/4" steel brake lines before.
Maybe it’s time to move on from this kit. Not sure I’m ready to drop $50 or whatever on a nicer one, though.
So the conundrum that I’m faced with is this: Should I pony up the cash for a real quality flaring tool, or should I try releasing the rest of the brake line from the truck, and replace the entire length with NiCopp? I was going to splice into the line in the engine compartment, but if I do the whole line, I have to go all the way to the ABS module, and if I go there, I’m afraid I’ll bump one of the other lines.
Really, ALL of the lines should be replaced anyway. I sure would, if it was my truck.
But the owner only wants to repair the one that’s currently leaking one, after which they can get rid of the truck ASAP before putting any more money into it. It could use more than just new brake lines...
![]() 04/09/2018 at 13:13 |
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You do enough of this work to justify the better tool, IMO.
![]() 04/09/2018 at 13:17 |
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Yeah, I guess I’m just mad at myself for wasting money on the cheap one in the first place. I don’t wanna buy another one! But you know what they say- The only thing more expensive than buying the right tool the first time around, is buying a cheap one first and then having to buy the good one anyway.
![]() 04/09/2018 at 13:25 |
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Eh, sometimes it actually does make sense to buy the cheaper one first, because you may find out that you don’t use it that much. You could always toss the cheap one of CL or FP marketplace for a few bucks to help ease the pain.
![]() 04/09/2018 at 13:32 |
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OR I can keep my money and replace just a few more feet of line. It’s tempting (but risky), and I have a few days to decide. Apparently the owner’s not in a big hurry.
![]() 04/09/2018 at 14:05 |
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I hate those cheap flaring kits...I borrowed one when I ran new NiCu lines one my F150 and it would not flare the lines properly. Everything keep going crooked/off-center. I think I spent more time flaring and re-flaring lines than actually removing and installing the lines.
![]() 04/09/2018 at 14:12 |
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You could, but I think you’ll regret not getting the better tool in the long run.
![]() 04/09/2018 at 14:21 |
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Hm, I’ve gotten so used to having to be extra-extra-careful to center the die perfectly... Are the nicer tools somehow self-centering?
![]() 04/09/2018 at 14:28 |
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I’m not sure. I just know I never want to use a cheap one again...no matter how careful I was or what I did it just seemed like a crap shoot as to whether or not the flare came out straight. I think it’s partly due to NiCu being softer cause I’ve used those kits before on steel lines and never had so much trouble before, but those kits in general just don’t seem well made.
![]() 04/09/2018 at 15:36 |
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Do you have a bubble flare kit? I hate brake lines, but using NiCopp and my new Bubble Flare tool made it a lot easier. I can’t remember when I bought my bubble flare kit but it wasn’t in stock anywhere. I’m pretty sure you need one for those and newer GMs.
![]() 04/09/2018 at 16:03 |
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I have a double flare kit, which involves two steps. If I skip the second step, it creates something that looks a lot like a bubble flare. I’m not sure if I can call it a TRUE bubble flare, though. Apparently there are some minute differences between DIN and ISO that I should probably pay more attention to. But it’s been working well so far and I’ve never had one leak.
![]() 04/09/2018 at 23:48 |
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A bubble flare kit has a different insert is all. It is like stopping 3/4 of the way to a double flare. Took me many many tries to start making them right!